Turn Any Berry Into This Custardy Berries and Cream Toast

The only thing better than a good recipe? When something’s so easy to make that you don’t even need one. Welcome to It’s That Simple, a column where we talk you through the process of making the dishes and drinks we can make with our eyes closed.

As a timid and impatient baker who requires a little something sweet multiple times a day (breakfast, 3 p.m., after dinner), I rely on a collection of semi-homemade, snacky sweets. They must meet specific requirements: no creaming butter and sugar, no “letting cool completely,” and no trip to the store. Usuals include cinnamon toast, chocolate chips on a spoonful of peanut butter, and cookie cereal (crisp cookies shattered and doused with milk).

While I’ve always wanted to make Nigel Slater’s raspberry ripple sandwich—a pillow of mashed raspberries and whipped cream on toast in his book Eat—my craving simply can’t wait for cream to whip. Which is how this berries and cream toast came to be. It steers the same combination of tart, juicy berries and rich, milky dairy into the fast lane. Instead of whipping cream, you swirl berries into something creamy, spoon it on top of toast, and broil until warm, soft, and oozy. It’s as simple as cinnamon toast, but with a springy twist. Here’s how it’s done:

Make toast: This could be a soft bread like Texas toast, brioche, or milk bread or a crustier loaf like sourdough, an English muffin, or a baguette. The texture is less important than the flavor. Save those seedy and whole-wheat loaves for cinnamon toast and instead go for something mild that won’t interfere with the topping. Lightly toast the bread in the toaster, broiler, or toaster oven—however you make toast.

Mash berries: Most all berries work (raspberries, blueberries, blackberries), but avoid strawberries, which can be too soft and weepy. If your berries are a little mushy, bruised, or too-tart, they can come too. Or if you don’t have fresh berries, use a spoonful of jam or of those delicious jarred sour Morello cherries.

Mash up a handful of your fruit of choice in a bowl with a fork. They don’t need to be smushed to jam—some variation makes for more interesting bites. Season with salt, then taste. If they make you pucker, add a little sugar, whether white or brown or powdered, honey, or agave. You could also add flavorings, like citrus zest, vanilla extract, or a few drops of booze.

Add cream: I like this toast with cream cheese, sour cream, or whole-milk ricotta. They all taste good warm and each adds its own flare. If you dream of toasted blueberry bagels spread with melty cream cheese, reach for that tub. Or for more tang, go with sour cream. It’s a classic pairing for berries because its acidity plays off the fruit’s sweetness, whether you’re making a dessert gratin or serving strawberries with a sour cream-brown sugar dip (like a total genius). If you don’t want tang, ricotta is the least intrusive, offering a simple, straight-up milky flavor.

Add a spoonful of your creamy ingredient of choice to the mashed berries (if using cream cheese, it should be at a soft room temperature). A 1:1 ratio is nice, but not strictly necessary—adjust based on the quantity of berries or dairy you have. Then stir just once or twice, until the berries create a colorful ripple.

Broil: Spoon the berry-cream mixture onto the toast wall-to-wall to prevent the toast’s edges from burning. Now broil in the oven or toaster oven until the topping is wobbly, like a microwaved marshmallow, and even beginning to brown in spots, 3–5 minutes. The berries will ooze, as will the dairy, but the toast will stay crisp. Wait a few beats before taking a bite.

On days when you aren’t scarfing a lofty piece down by yourself, you could toast a bunch of slices and cut them into cute triangles for guests. But as for now, three o’clock approaches—and you know that means.

Ali Slagle is a recipe developer, stylist, and writer. Her first cookbook, ‘I Dream of Dinner (so You Don’t Have To),’ will be out in the spring of 2022.