Europe

I found a spa hotel with all of the luxury and none of the snobbery

Head here for lazy days in the sauna, expert spa treatments and 6-course dinners.

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Many people travel to escape the daily grind but I love nothing more than a holiday routine. Call me boring, but I fully let go when I know how the day will unfold and all the little bits I can look forward to.

At Quellenhof Luxury Resort near Lazise on Lake Garda in northern Italy, my husband and I rose early so we could have the steaming hot outdoor pool all to ourselves. We meandered to breakfast – no rush with the buffet staying open until 11am – and went back for multiple courses, of course.

Our afternoons were spent napping in between the sauna, plush relaxation room and daily spa treatments. We rounded off the day with an evening ‘aperitivo’ in the bar before dinner at the very respectable 7pm – reflective of the majority German clientele rather than Mediterraneans.

Lazise: What to do and where to go

I came to Lake Garda looking to switch off and recharge after a busy few months. The shores of one of Europe’s most famous lakes cover 160km so I had plenty of destinations to choose from. 

Lazise, on the south-east shore, suited me perfectly as it’s only a half-hour drive from Verona airport and the last thing I wanted was a lengthy or complicated journey. 

It’s a cute town of cobbled streets lined with restaurants, gelato shops and Italian-themed souvenirs. The Navigarda ferry across the lake stops in Lasize’s harbour making for an easy way to explore other towns. 

Lazise is also halfway between the popular Garda towns of Bardolino and Desenzano, allowing for easy day trips by public bus or car. 

Lake Garda family friendly spa hotel: Spa areas to suit everyone’s needs

If you want to explore further afield, Quellenhof offers guided tours to nearby cities, like Verona, and boat trips and e-bike tours around the lake. But don’t feel guilty if you can’t bring yourself to leave the warm and cosy cocoon that the hotel so expertly creates.

The sauna area is one of the best I’ve been in, with a whole circuit you can do from sauna to plunge pool to sumptuous relaxation bed. While some fellow guests were clearly regulars, I was glad of the instructions provided to help you reap the full benefits of the sauna experience.

Most of the other guests were families with children or teenagers while we were there, probably because it was school holiday time. The hotel has rooms, spa treatments and a sauna specially designed for families. So don’t worry if you’re coming as a couple wanting a romantic break – the adults-only sauna and relaxation area is a child-free zone. 

We only crossed paths with our fellow guests at mealtimes, though, the rest of the hotel was quiet and tranquil. If, on the other hand, you come with kids or teenagers, you’ll appreciate the waterslide next to the hotel’s outdoor swimming lake and three theme parks within a 20-minute drive (Gardaland – Italy’s largest – CanevaWorld and Legoland).

Quellenhof Lazise: Rooftop restaurant with views and food to die for

As with all the best 5* hotels, it’s the little touches that elevate Quellenhof. You’re assigned the same dinner table every night so you become friendly with the wait staff and they pre-empt your order. 

I travel with a shopping list of dietary restrictions but I never felt short changed by the alternatives on the personalised menu handed to me each night. 

I noted the pride the staff take in keeping the place immaculate, from replacing a table cloth that didn’t have a sharp enough crease to clearing the crumbs between courses.

Most guests are here on half board, with breakfast and dinner included. When I heard it would be six courses every night, I worried we’d be rolling back to our room. But portions were perfectly sized with space left between courses to rest and digest. 

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The food was impossible to fault, with multiple choices per course and a great mix of comforting classics and modern creations.

A family-run hotel makes for a family atmosphere

It’s no surprise that people come back to Quellenhof again and again, and not just because there are discounts if you come more than once a year.

The three hotels in the group are all owned and run by the same family, the Dorfers. The family feeling runs through to how guests are welcomed back – I noticed staff greeting them like long lost relatives.

What I loved about this hotel was that the service and facilities are first class but it never felt pretentious. You’ll doubtless have a healthy and rejuvenating break here but the spa element isn’t rammed down your throat like it can be at some spa hotels. Refreshingly, I didn’t hear ‘wellness’ mentioned even once.

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A week after our stay, I’m still missing our morning swims and regretting that fluffy dressing gowns aren’t suitable attire in the outside world.

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