How to enjoy Lake Como as a solo budget female traveller

On the train from Milan, I bask in visions of the perfect Lake Como weekend getaway. Lazy walks along the water’s edge, ferry rides to delightful hidden spots and swoon-worthy Italian food. I’m all too ready to switch off and reset.  

What I realise too late, however, is that there are transport strikes planned for the weekend I am there, impacting buses, trains and more, and storm warnings for the coming Sunday. This means the rough itinerary I have in mind is suddenly up in the air. 

Surprisingly, as an infrequent solo traveller with high stress, I find the lack of routine strangely liberating. Without a list of must-see attractions, I don’t have to worry about checking any boxes – I can make this trip whatever I want it to be. 

Here’s how other solo budget travellers can do Lake Como without feeling the pinch or the pressure. 

Where to stay in Lake Como on a budget

Although Lake Como stays can be notoriously expensive, skewed by romantic and luxury hotels, I was pleasantly surprised by the number of hostels and budget accommodation available. 

I stayed at Ostello Bello Lake Como in Como city for its affordability as well as closeness to the lake. A bed in a six-room dormitory cost me €133 for two nights – but is likely to be far cheaper during off-peak seasons. 

I loved the fun and laid back atmosphere of the hostel, which offers a number of activities like sunset lakeside picnics, family dinners, beer pong and game nights. It also has plenty of lovely outdoor seating, a very well-stocked and spacious kitchen and excellent food. 

Other good budget stays in Como include New Generation Hostel Lake Como and Hotel Il Loggiato dei Serviti – but keep in mind that these are a bit further from the city centre. 

There are also a number of apartments available for a reasonable price, but these are also usually less central. 

What to do in Lake Como on a budget

Lake Como’s shoreline is dotted with extravagant villas surrounded by botanical gardens for visitors to explore. I have to admit, though – they’re not really my thing. In any case, the ongoing transport strikes and bad weather made villa-hopping quite challenging.  

Instead, I much prefer exploring hidden towns and tiny villages, drinking in the scenery and dining at local restaurants. To avoid the late summer tourist crowds in bigger cities such as Bellagio and Varenna, I chose to visit the tiny village of Nesso instead. 

Nesso, most famous for Orrido di Nesso, a steep waterfall, is a little hamlet on the west fork of the lake. Its few restaurants, cafes and shops are perched on a clifftop, accessible by steps, while houses cling to the edge all the way up. 

I did find the trek up to be unexpectedly long and steep, but the cool and crisp weather was definitely a bonus and the view from the top was absolutely mesmerising. 

The stairs can be quite steep and slippery in places, especially during rain, so it’s worth noting there’s an hourly bus from the top straight back to Como, as an alternative to the ferry. 

Argegno is another great option. Even though it’s much smaller than the other tourist towns, it has a wide variety of reasonably-priced restaurants, which are mostly lake-facing. 

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One thing I really loved in Como was the Como-Brunate funicular railway. Tickets are €6 one-way, and the journey itself takes about seven minutes. At the top, you’re rewarded with stunning views, plus restaurants, cafes and bars for a quick bite. 

You may have to wait quite a while to board, both at the bottom and the top, so make sure you put a couple of hours aside for this trip. It’s better to get there early in the day for the best views and fewer crowds. The Como Cathedral, Teatro Sociale and the Roman baths are also worth a visit. 

How much money do you need to visit Lake Como?

I didn’t have a very big budget for activities, so I planned to explore Lake Como by ferry. I had a free circulation ticket, which lets you get off at any stop on a certain route, like Como to Bellagio, for the day for €23. 

If you’re not planning to take expensive boat tours, €60 to €80 per day should be more than enough to get by in Como.

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However, the ferry isn’t always the best way to get around, as it can be slow, infrequent in some cases, and dependent on weather. Buses are often a better option, being much more regular and reliable. 

Overall, I loved the relaxed pace of this trip, and enjoyed spending some time alone with my thoughts, free from everyday stress. 

I did feel a little out of place sometimes though, especially when I was around a lot of couples and families, like at the top of the funicular railway. It was also a little awkward asking other people to take a picture of me, so I stuck mostly to selfies.

Where to eat in Lake Como on a budget

Como itself isn’t really known for having the best food, with better options in Bellagio and Varenna. However, some good budget places include Ristorante Osteria dal Pain, which has a good pizzoccheri (a type of buckwheat pasta with potatoes, cabbage and Casera cheese), as well as several polenta options. A dinner here cost me €25 for a main, a side and a drink. 

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Ostello Bello also had quite a spread for breakfast, for €6.90, and an excellent dinner, with a number of pasta and pizza options. A pizza and a drink here was €11, followed by a generous serving of watermelon on the house. 

In Argegno, I ate a really good lasagna at Hotel Argegno – with a drink, my bill came to €10.50. I then popped over to Ristorante Barchetta next door for a tiramisu, which was slightly pricier at €7, but definitely worth it. 

I stuck to non-alcoholic drinks throughout this trip, so costs would probably be slightly higher if you’re drinking. 

For gelato, needless to say, there are a number of options. I was pleasantly surprised by one of the lakefront shops in Como, Al Molo, which had a divine Nutella flavour for €4.50 a scoop. Although that’s a bit more than I would normally pay, the view was worth every cent. 

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Bar Gelateria Lol in Nesso also does a lovely gelato, with the coconut flavour especially sublime, for less than €3 a scoop.