Your Ultimate Guide to Lip Shapes

On the less invasive side, a Botox “lip flip” can subtly enhance your upper lip by relaxing the muscles around it, creating the illusion of fuller lips without adding volume.

How to choose the best technique

“The goal, whether you’re lifting the lip or enhancing it with fillers, is to create a concave, shorter upper lip that shows a balance of red lip and teeth,” Dr. Kassir explains. “To achieve this, if someone has a long upper lip, a surgical lip lift is often the best option. For those with a naturally shorter upper lip, this effect can be done more conservatively with fillers.”

How to make thinner lips appear fuller

“You can achieve the look of full lips by mastering how to over-line your lips,” says Greenberg.

First, choose a liner that is the same shade as your natural lip color. Then, “over-line at your cupid’s bow to give that full look,” she says. “Using a nude lipstick will make your lips look fuller, as if you use a color that stands out against your skin more, your lips will look smaller. Choose a nude lipstick color that is a few shades darker than your natural skin tone.”

Finally, if you want your lips to appear fuller, Greenberg recommends topping it off with a gloss instead of perfecting a matte lip. “The light reflecting off of the gloss will make your lips look fuller,” she says.

Is it possible to correct uneven lips with makeup?

“Yes, you can correct uneven lips with makeup,” says Khelemsky. “Lip liner is particularly effective for addressing small asymmetries. Also, makeup is an excellent tool to experiment with subtle adjustments to lip ratios.”

To enhance the cupid’s bow, outline just above the peaks, she says. “For the lower lip, applying liner centrally and towards the sides helps create a fuller look, which you can fill in with lipstick,” she says. “A 1:1 ratio can be stretched into a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio simply with careful lining and filling.” To emphasize a central pout, use a light-reflecting gloss in the middle of the lower lip, while darker shades on the outer edges add depth.

Can lip shapes change over time?

Yes, lip shapes can—and do—change over time. “Over time, lips tend to get thinner as the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid decrease,” Greenberg explains. “However, it is usually genetics that play a role in your lip shape and fullness.”

There are some ways to maintain your lip shape, though. “An analogy I often use is: If the lips are the photo, then the skin surrounding them is the frame,” says Dr. Khelemsky. “Just as a damaged frame can decrease the appeal of a picture, aging skin can detract from the appearance of the lips. Both require attention and care to ensure they complement each other and create a youthful, harmonious look.”

How to start a lip care routine

Plastic surgeons’ advice for keeping your lips looking youthful? “For a complete lip care routine, start with a hydrating lip balm that includes SPF to protect your lips from sun damage—an essential step for everyday care,” says Dr. Kassir.