Insects, the superfood with an image problem gets a makeover

Nestled in the heart of north London’s Finsbury Park, the bright yellow livery of Yum Bug, the insect-loving restaurant, fizzes out – bright, young, and energetic, it’s definitely more of a showy butterfly than an austere moth.

Originally a quirky pop-up back in 2018, Yum Bug was created by 30-year-old friends Leo Taylor and Aaron Thomas. Their plan was to show ‘that edible insects can help create a healthier and more sustainable food system’ free of traditionally farmed animal meat.

It’s hard not to be impressed by the numbers. Insect farming produces significantly fewer greenhouse gas emissions than traditional livestock farming, while providing around 50% more protein than beef.

Future food with an image problem

Insects can be farmed vertically in stacked containers, to optimise space and increase yields, they’re super-efficient at converting plant by-products into protein, and they produce 80 times less methane and 8-12 times less ammonia than cattle.

Their environmental and sustainable credentials are undeniable, but can this superfood with an image problem win over the average diner?

Yum Bug is an intimate restaurant that seats 20. A pared-back industrial aesthetic of black and chocolate brown creates a quietly understated backdrop for the real star of the show, the cricket-based menu.

Host Donal MacAuley welcomes me in, his knowledge and enthusiasm for all things cricket are infectious.

He gently guides me through the menu, highlighting the different forms the crickets take. Whole roasted in the Bombay mix, minced in the roasted vegetable salad, powdered in the caramel baklava.

It’s important to Yum Bug that diners have the time and space to ask questions, process the answers, and battle any ‘ick’ feelings before taking the leap.

I tried the most ‘crickety’ dishes on the menu

Yum Bug serves small plates and recommends three. I was keen to try a combination of the most ‘crickety’ and the most popular dishes on the menu.

When the first dish arrived – ramekins of whole honey roasted crickets and a Bombay mix with spicy roasted crickets, Donal saw the look in my eyes and jumped right in: “Diners often confuse crickets with grasshoppers and expect to see large thin insects,” he said. He’s right, I did.

Who knew edible crickets are only slightly larger than a fat grain of rice? Donal explained what to expect when I took my first taste of the critters. “They’re crunchy on the outside but softer in the middle, like a Sugar Puff.”

The brown honey roasted crickets had a nutty aroma, the honey on their little insect bodies caught the light as I moved closer. I battled the ‘ick’ feeling for a split-second, before scooping five into my mouth.

Donal was right again, they’re crunchy and sweet – the crunchiness yielding to a smoky, nutty flavour – the perfect accompaniment to a cold glass of wine or a beer.

The Southern fried BBQ taco with rainbow slaw looks amazing. Crickets have been formed into brisket chunks. I noted the taste – just the right amount of spicy kick. The texture’s smooth and soft, the insect brisket chunks could easily pass for chicken.

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Yum Bug’s crispy brown cheese and ale ‘crickettes’ are made with minced crickets. They have the good looks of a traditional croquette on the outside, and a lovely creamy cheesiness on the inside, a walnut ketchup adds a sweet top note.

The novelty of eating insects subsided, leaving just great food

Lemongrass posset rounded off the meal. Caramelised cricket, coconut shortbread, and a sprinkling of whole roasted crickets to deliver a satisfying crunch.

My newly acquired nonchalance at the prospect of eating an insect, that actually looks like an insect, helped me totally relax. I savoured the tart sweetness of the lemon and the smoky swirl of the cricket as they came together, an unforgettable combination.

Across the restaurant, Donal chatted to chef Samir. I swear I saw a flash of quiet satisfaction on his face as I tucked into my crickety plates.

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We’d been on a culinary journey together and he had another critter convert to add to his list.

Yum Bug is open from Wednesday to Saturday.